just became a dealer for hisun products and have a 800 efi v-twin sxs and a 700 efi utv. here is a video of both at idle and revving.
above is the 2011 800 efi v-twin sxs stock
above is the 2011 700 efi utv stock
Good luck with the dealership. I'm buying an 800 myself in two weeks......
700 is working out great with no problems but the 800 we are having problems with the front end kicking out of 4wd. the are using a friction front differential which would include a magnetic armature which is what the wires would be going to. also there is an adjustment screw which we will be looking at as well. here are a few pics so far and will have more when we tear it out. if anyone knows what the front diff is similar to please chime in as it most likely is a copy of another utv.
It's a copy of a polaris hilliard. Make sure the electrical connections are good and tight. Another guy on another forum couldn't get his front diff to work and found one of the connections wasn't secure.
checked all connections and we are getting 12v to the front diff but is still disengaging and reengaging at low rpm. do you know how the adjustment screw should be set or what it is actually pushing on?
going to see if i can find someone with a quart of "premium demand drive fluid", we were told that it takes 75w-90 and if this truly is a copy of a hilliard front diff. that is way to thick. i believe the demand drive fluid is nearly a 10 viscosity and is synthetic. let you know my findings.
The guy I was speaking of is Shore and I see he just became a member here so hopefully he will chime in. I do know that he changed all of his fluids out and replaced them with fluids the manufacturers use that this unit was copied from. He changed the front diff out and replaced with polaris spec fluids. If I remember correct they were saying this diff is a copy of polaris's 2007 design. This is exactly why we need to get more support here so when problems come up we know what to do.
exactly, and like i said, the guy who got us started said to use 75w90 gear lube, obviously he was no where even close to being correct. not having any luck finding any today so will run to town tomorrow to get some pure polaris demand drive fluid. at least everyone can learn something from this if they didn't already know.
Another thing to remember is this diff depends on the electrical signal sent to it to activate the magnet. You should check to make sure the voltage is not going up and down causing it to disengage. A bad battery, a bad coil, anything like that would cause it to kick in and out.
everything voltage seems to be fine, i think until i get the proper oil in there, there isn't much i can do. after tomorrow i will check. so i would assume, which i hate to do, that the rear diff is basically the same setup?
From what I remember the rear is still a bit of a mystery. I know it has the open diff like the popo and has a locker. Seems like though I remember some guys looking at the schematic and saying it looked different than polaris. Hopefully some others will get in here that know more than me. This is what shore told me to do as far as fluids go when I get mine:
" Polaris demand drive plus in the front diff.
10w-30 castrol in the engine for break in.
75w-90 Mobil1 syn hypoid gear oil in the tranny and rear end.
Change the coolant also."
This info was derived from guys that have been servicing the machines this one was copied from......
great info, yes i hope more people chime in and not people that are going to say "go buy a name brand one" people need to realize that yamaha does work in china as well and they also need to realize that when stuff started coming out of japan first it was all shit as well. everyone has to start somewhere and if we can narrow down the weak points right away we could save a few headaches. i am going to go get some low viscosity hydraulic oil that is 10w20 from my brother at his napa store and will come home and drain the old out and put this in and see what happens. let you know how it works.
changed the front diff lube and seems to be ok... havn't had a good chance to test it yet but have a few sounds coming from the tranny now so will drain the final drive and get some 75w90 full synthetic with limited slip to put in there tomorrow.
front diff changed and final drive flushed again. still not working and is very upsetting for a new product. will remove all the skid plates hopefully tomorrow night. sounds are still coming from the final drive now and are a pretty bad clunking noise. tear it out or is there another option at this point?
Well that's a bit disturbing. The clunking noises are definately not a good sign. I see that your a dealer, isn't there some type of support that you guys get? How would you help a customer if he had the same problem? Do you have the option of returning te unit for another?
see this is the problem with chinese units. the dealer knows less than i do myself. i can tear it apart and figure out what it is but that will take tons of time. if a customer had this problem that is what i would be doing, i was hoping i could narrow it down before tearing it all apart. exchange is not an option, i was told they would get me whatever part i need so i guess i will be giving it a try. not that this has anything to do with it but this was one of the earlier units made that was imported by tomoto which is no longer in business. the units were bought by us titan and now resold.
Chinese or not, I have buddies that have spent lots of money on name brand quads that have broken right away. One of them bought a new polaris last year and backed it off the trailer and went for a spin around the yard and the motor siezed up tighter than a tick. There was a bad crank bearing and it siezed. Polaris wanted to replace the motor but being as the unit was 30 minutes old he bitched and said it was either a new unit or his money back. The dealer swapped him one in a different color. With the slipping in and out and noises it's making I would say something is definately out of place in it. Let us know what you find out......
The front diff can use synthetic ATF fluid if needed. It is very light. It takes just a little of the Demand Drive Plus that you just need to get a quart. It's like 3.5oz that needs to be put in.
Also, check if you;re getting codes. They will read out across the odometer reading while the key is on. I still say you're losing the signal at that harness.
Another thing I noticed was the driveline noise. I had to adjust my linkage at the shifter to stop some occasional grinding when going to reverse.....just a couple turns and it was good. It will have some slop getting on and off the gas. That is typical of all UTV's with a long front drive shaft and u-joints.
I'm still up in the air on the rear diff copy. It should use GL5 though...no need for GL4. GL4 is very hard to find and is inferior to GL5 in shear strength. GL5 is just not friendly to "yellow" metals...as in what gearboxes that have synchros use..Like manual transmission, 5-speeds and such.
describe the noise you're having.